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While the energetic, modern French cuisine—such as clove and buttermilk chicken pot au feu—is a strong draw to chef Geoffrey Zakarian’s Country, guests cannot be blamed for dining there just to see the design. Taking two floors of the Carlton Hotel, Country has been carefully restored with historic beaux art elements, and is home to a champagne lounge, a fine-dining space upstairs, a more casual café downstairs and nine private, elegant rooms.