10 Great Pizza Places in NYC
by Katherine Faw Morris, New York Observer contributor, 01/16/2009
295 Flatbush Ave. • 718-230-0221
At franny's, disciples of the greenmarket gospel can have their locally sourced veggies, biodiesel fuel and pizza, too. Helmed by Savoy vets Andrew Feinberg and Francine Stephens, this Flatbush storefront catapulted itself into the Brooklyn pizza stratosphere shortly after opening in 2004. The oven is wood burning and the pie is charred, with a thin crust that's uncut, uneven, and made for tearing into hunks. Chef Feinberg is a subscriber to the Craft school of minimalism (see the pietistic extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt pizza), but topping combos like clams, chilies and parsley, or tomato, anchovies and Parmigiano Reggiano, prove he's no monk. In keeping with the stylish brick-and-mirror bistro décor, the daily menu steers away from red-checkered-tablecloth antipasti of the traditional pizza parlor. White pie sits comfortably alongside cage-free hard-boiled eggs, and pearl barley salad somehow serves as the perfect prelude to meat lover's sausage pizza. Even liquor gets a healthy twist: Wild celery and fresh vegetable juices perk up a cocktail list that includes homemade spirits like sweet vermouth and limoncello. With a verdant back garden free of hormones, antibiotics and reservations, prepare to jostle elbows with childbearing Brooklynites come summertime.
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