Tables for Two
by Kelly Snowden, New York Observer contributor, 02/05/2009
6. The Odeon
145 W. Broadway • 212-233-0507
Dining at The Odeon is a visit to a living legend, albeit one whose brightest days may be behind it. Odeon knows what it once was—a name dropped in gossip columns and novels in the high-flying '80s—and it carries the sturdy confidence of someone with nothing to prove. You probably already know how this cafeteria-chic French bistro launched Tribeca as a neighborhood, and you may be here to become a part, however small, of the story. The menu is bistro-inspired, with steak tartare, omelettes, and roasted chicken, but with some sharp curve balls, like tuna burgers and dulce de leche cheesecake. Presentations can be endearingly reminiscent of the '80s, with proteins cut on the bias and mounted precariously over vegetables piles, but no matter. The venison couldn't be juicier or more flavorful and comes over a bed of Brussels sprouts and chestnuts. The warm goat cheese salad is exactly what it sounds like, with the inspired addition of pine nuts. A side of golden frites arrives in a paper funnel, perfect for sharing. Their signature dessert is a vanilla sundae with pralines and butterscotch sauce, but the profiteroles, with their trickle-down chocolate sauce, are the true find.
Table for Two
The brown and red corner banquette (#5) is ideal for taking in the softly lit Art Deco detailing and the bustle of a restaurant comfortable in its own skin.
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