145 W. Broadway, 212-233-0507, theodeonrestaurant.com

Plenty has changed in TriBeCa since the hedonistic 1980s—like, say, the legions of baby strollers that now populate the sidewalks—but one mainstay is Odeon, the legendary Keith McNally eatery that birthed the downtown brasserie scene. Decadence remains a culinary philosophy at the establishment, so slide into a vinyl-and-Formica banquette and indulge in a time-honored classic like the dynamite frisée salad with lardons or seasonal specialties like short rib with rigatoni or brussels sprouts. The popular eatery always draws crowds, but Saturdays are best for brunch (served until 4pm), and don't be afraid to have your dinner at the endlessly long bar to avoid waiting for a table. "We went from trendy debutante to the matriarch of the neighborhood," says manager Micaela Grossman. Bright lights, big bistro. —Ben Detrick

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