Dining

Recently Opened Restaurants

by Julie Besonen, 04/08/2015

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  • Lan Larb Soho 
    227 Centre St., 646-895-9264, SoHo, Manhattan
    Lan Larb Soho serves stimulating Isan Thai food. The chef is Ratchanee Sumpatboon, an expat from Ubon Ratchathani, the northeastern province in Thailand that borders Laos and Cambodia. People have not been able to get enough of Sumpatboon's cuisine at Larb Ubol in Hell's Kitchen and Lan Larb in Murray Hill, so she pretty much had to open a third place. Isan Thai food is bright with flavor and fresh herbs, but not sweet. And while there is good pad Thai here, it's not the point. Among the main attractions are the larb salads, which you can top with ground beef, pork, duck, chicken or catfish; their greens zing with mint, red onion, lime juice and sparks of chili powder. The uncluttered, contemporary space is near Puro Wine, good for grabbing a bottle of Chilean white or red to accompany your sliced duck over rice with pickled ginger (the restaurant is BYOB).

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