Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 04/17/2013
Photo: Melissa Hom
Pearl & Ash
220 Bowery, 212-837-2370, NoLIta, Manhattan
Bonito flakes melting into pork meatballs are one of the most sublime morsels to be currently found in the City. In case you've been curious to experience that elusive fifth flavor, umami (the other four are salty, sour, bitter, sweet), here's your chance. Richard Kuo (formerly of wd~50 and Frej, a pop-up in Williamsburg) has other genius moves up his chef's sleeve, such as hanger steak tartare with egg and cocoa and hot, crisp potato bites topped with porcini mayo and crumbles of chorizo. At Pearl & Ash his innovative menu is conveniently offered in small and large portions (get the small selections so you can order a wider variety). The restaurant is a sexy, crafty space on the Bowery, with industrial Diamond Deck metal flooring and one wall built as a sort of jigsaw puzzle of wooden niches filled with curios and candles. As odd as it may sound, it all works, and we predict the venue will develop even more buzz in the coming months.