Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 07/02/2014
Photo: Jen Snow/Kelli Anderson
Russ & Daughters Café
179 E. Houston St., 212-475-4881, Lower East Side, Manhattan
Josh Russ Tupper and Niki Russ Federman are the great-grandchildren of Joel Russ, who founded his first Russ & Daughters appetizing store in 1914. One hundred years later the family business looks stronger than ever: this café is so utterly endearing it should last that long or more. The white-walled space resembles an old-timey pharmacy, the servers in the same white lab coats as the countermen at Russ & Daughters on Houston Street. There you take a ticket (which is cleverly referenced on the bathroom's wallpaper), and here it’s similarly first come, first served—that is, no reservations. A soda fountain dispenses everything from egg creams to cocktails, and in back are comfy booths to settle in for some lox, eggs and onions with spectacular toasted shissel rye or a board accessorized with thinly sliced, silky Gaspé Nova smoked salmon, cream cheese, tomato, onion and capers with a choice of a bagel or bialy. For big spenders there's caviar galore.