Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 12/17/2014
Photo: Thomas Schauer
28 Seventh Ave. S., 212-255-1795, West Village, Manhattan
James Beard Award–winning chef Galen Zamarra has kept a food journal for years, meticulously noting the seasonal produce he finds from week to week at the farmers' market. He has brought that hyperawareness to Mas (farmhouse) since 2004 and applies the same principles to Almanac, his remake of Mas (la grillade). The split-level space is romantic and quiet, lit by iron chandeliers and appointed with weathered pine, antique mirrors and rotating art displays. Zamarra is classically trained, a veteran of the original Bouley and Michelin three-star restaurants in France; it shows in the restrained purity of his poached black bass pot au feu with smoked shiitake mushrooms. Also ethereal: razor clams with kohlrabi and sesame seed salad, and lamb breast with squash risotto and chestnuts. Almanac's ever-changing selection of dishes is organized into tasting menus, with three courses for $75, five courses for $95 and eight courses for $145. Wine director Sarah Sutel-Looper will gladly pair each course with wine chosen from an extensive European collection, which is kept in a glass-enclosed cave. Everything is also available à la carte, with appetizers for $20 and main courses for $40.