Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 07/02/2014
Photo: Nick Solares
282 Bowery, 212-226-3055, NoLIta, Manhattan
Balthazar has a mini-me in Cherche Midi, Keith McNally's French remake of the Italian Pulino's, which formerly occupied this corner on the Bowery. Rue du Cherche Midi is a Left Bank street in Paris where McNally once lived, but the glowing, happening canteen named for it is no nostalgia trip. Cocktails are up-to-the-minute, and even frog legs and steak tartare taste novel. This highly professional operation is more than a placeholder until his much-missed Pastis reopens somewhere down the road. Dry-aged prime rib with pommes soufflés and the never-gets-old, big and juicy McNally-style burger, here spread with bacon marmalade, will develop new followers. Even if you ate every single last perfect french fry, it's no place to skip dessert, especially when it comes to the blissful lemon tart. At this point it's not easy to book a table, so try your luck early or very late.