Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 07/02/2014
Courtesy, Houdini Kitchen Laboratory
Houdini Kitchen Laboratory
15-63 Decatur St., 718-456-3770, Ridgewood, Queens
Houdini Kitchen Laboratory is a great summer escape, its undeveloped Ridgewood neighborhood mysterious to most, its pizza sublime and its outdoor tables shaded by umbrellas. This former brewery behind an unmarked door is somewhat difficult to find, a few blocks from the Halsey Street L stop where you might see more delivery trucks than people. (Imagine Bushwick before Roberta's made that neighborhood a destination). Owners Massimiliano Bartoli and Pilar Rigon (Miss Williamsburg Diner) warmed up the high-ceilinged brick space with a big, wood-flaming oven, vintage refrigerators and a sturdy table laden with wine bottles and beer cans. The pizza has a thin yet brawny crust, and toppings are generously strewn. The Guido BK is especially satisfying, each bite holding wine-cured sausage, crunchy broccoli rabe, tomato sauce and mozzarella. Squeeze bottles of chili oil are provided to raise the heat index. Lovely salads and pasta specials are other compelling reasons to make the trek.