Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 09/02/2014
Photo: Evan Sung
149 Broadway, 718-384-0673, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
When a restaurant is named Meadowsweet, it's no surprise to find that it's lovely, airy and pastoral. Tall herbs grace a loft garden that faces the front picture window, and a ladder is propped behind the bar so mint and basil can be picked fresh to garnish drinks. The Williamsburg space has been lightened up since it was Dressler, where Polo Dobkin once earned a Michelin star. He and his wife, Stephanie Lempert, might source locally for ingredients but have a Mediterranean outlook, with dishes nodding to Spain (octopus with piquillo peppers and chorizo) and Italy (hand-rolled pasta with ricotta, peas and Parmesan broth). Dobkin also excels at crispy baby artichokes with creamy garlic dressing and perfectly roasted chicken served with escarole, maitake mushrooms and pancetta. Inventive cocktails and a well-chosen, eclectic list of beer, wine and effervescent cider make beverage choices nearly as stimulating as the food.