Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 07/02/2014
Photo: Daniel Krieger
94 Chambers St., 646-644-6255, TriBeCa, Manhattan
One taste of Frédéric Duca's foraged wild mushrooms on a creamy cushion of Di Palo's burrata brightened with aged balsamic should be enough to convince you that you're in the hands of a master chef. If you get here too late for morel season, don't despair, as his lemon-tinged scallops Grenobloise or lobster with squid ink cappellini or even his not-so-humble chicken (ultra-moist breast and pressed leg) are astonishing. Duca is a Michelin-starred French chef making his New York City debut and can be seen concentrating on every dish coming out of the open kitchen. Racines (which means "roots" in French) originated in Paris; here the chef is matched up with partners David Lanher, Arnaud Tronche and David Lillie, an owner of Chambers Street Wines. The white marble bar is an optimal place to sit and sample from the list of natural wines produced at small estates. The sleek, contemporary space invites casual dress, and yet the transcendence of the food can be compared to Per Se's.