Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 02/11/2015
Photo: Gabi Porter
- more in dining/
334B Bowery, 212-466-3301, NoHo, Manhattan
Behind a secret door inside Espoleta, a fusion tapas and wine bar, is New York City's first pizza speakeasy. You'll need a password, which is disclosed online when you submit your email address for a reservation. The only other way to get in is luck or by taking advantage of terrible weather—the rare time the eatery's "Vacancy" sign on Bowery might be lit. If it says "No Vacancy," forget it, since that means all two dozen seats are taken. SRO (single room occupancy) feels so special—intimate, friendly, old school—that people tend to linger. The $38 prix-fixe menu includes a beverage (wine, beer or nonalcoholic), a starter (get the pastry-like sausage and broccoli rustico), pizza or calzone and dessert. Pizza master Giulio Adriani is most famous for his montanara pie, frying the dough before baking it with tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil. Rather than added crispness, the process packs in more flavor. Spongy and faintly caramelized tres leches cake is not very Italian, but no matter; it should be your dessert pick.