Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 09/23/2015
Radish with seaweed butter. Courtesy, Wildair
- more in dining/
142 Orchard St., 646-964-5624, Lower East Side, Manhattan
The team behind Contra, a creative tasting-menu sensation on the Lower East Side, has opened a more casual sister restaurant two doors up. Seating is at high communal tables and counters, the best view facing the open kitchen. Wildair homes in on natural wines from little-known producers and small plates that pop, especially the soft scallop crudo, fabulous fried squid with squid ink mayonnaise and beef tartare with smoked cheddar and chestnuts. Chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske also offer a couple of substantial dishes, such as pork Milanese and steak for two, and whatever you do get the fresh baked bread and olive oil, carb concerns be damned. Nor should dessert be neglected, not when there's a chocolate hazelnut tart and vanilla custard with rhubarb granita that will blow you away.