Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 01/20/2016
Quality Eats. Photo: Christopher Postlewaite
19 Greenwich Ave., 212-337-9988, West Village, Manhattan
Quality Eats has a classy yet happy-go-lucky air for a steakhouse, the wood bar carved with initials and cartoonish faces as if children had been encouraged to attack it with sharp knives. There’s an insouciance to the menu, too, with luscious creamed spinach hush puppies, brown-bag curly fries and thick-cut Nueske’s bacon paired with peanut butter sauce and jalapeño jelly. As strange as that latter item sounds, the smoky-sweet-spicy combination works. Steaks (bavette, hanger, skirt, filet mignon) are $29 and under, sourced from the reliable Creekstone Farms and Brandt Beef. Bottles of wine start at $31, an almost unheard-of deal these days. Executive chef Ryan Bartlow is a vet of Frankies 570. Founder Michael Stillman first made his name with the popular Quality Meats in Midtown (at this West Village spin-off, the ‘M’ is playfully scored out). Steakhouses are in Stillman’s blood, so to speak; his father, Alan, founded Smith & Wollensky.