Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 09/23/2015
Photo: Michael Tulipan
- more in dining/
436 Jefferson St., 718-381-8201, Bushwick, Brooklyn
A Bushwick storage warehouse for the Museum of Modern Art has been transformed into a cavernous, wood-clad restaurant where artistry is displayed on each handmade plate. Chef and co-owner Kevin Adey, formerly of Northeast Kingdom, mills locally sourced wheat on-site for housemade pastas, lacing them with littleneck clams and Calabrian chili, for instance, or earthy, well-seasoned merguez sausage, escarole and Gaeta olives. His casarecce pasta is gluten-free; the long twists can be substituted for any wheat-based noodles. Bread is fired in a wood-burning oven, as is a great octopus dish paired with delicate guanciale (pork jowl). In fact, the odder items on the menu are what really set Faro apart from other modern Italian restaurants, such as lovely porridge with corn and chanterelle mushrooms and amazing, crouton-covered beef tartare spiked with pickled mustard seeds. A smart selection of balanced cocktails, craft beer and several organic and biodynamic wines serves as the drinks menu.