Recently Opened Restaurants

by Julie Besonen, 03/11/2015

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  • Mission Chinese Food
    171 E. Broadway, 212-529-8800, Chinatown, Manhattan
    Precocious chef Danny Bowien's reborn Mission Chinese Food is like a grown-up who hasn't forgotten how to party. The clubby Chinatown space, replacing Rosette, pulses with disco music while confidently dishing out specialties like kung pao pastrami, thrice-cooked bacon with rice cakes and fiery Mongolian long beans by the pound. No reservations are accepted, and even on off-nights there can be an hour's wait—that's how thrilled Bowien's fans are that he's back (his funky Lower East Side location closed in 2013). The overflow marches through a long, dark passageway downstairs that leads to a bar clad in what looks like a moonscape of crushed aluminum foil. There's a kooky cocktail menu (a gin and coconut-milk-laced Phil Khallins, anyone?), interesting ciders, canned sake and many rewards for patience. Delicate salt cod fried rice is embedded with small coins of Chinese sausage, and there's a hearty, Eastern European slant to beef brisket with broccoli and smoked oyster sauce. This rising star chef has truly arrived.

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