Hanjan 
36 W. 26th St., 212-206-7226, Flatiron District, Manhattan
A few blocks south of Koreatown is a new kid in town, Hanjan, dark and slender and as hot as chili-laced kimchi. Flatiron sophisticates spill onto the sidewalk, waiting for room at the bar or a table in order to partake in Hooni Kim's traditional and modern interpretations of his native cuisine. The Daniel- and Masa-trained chef is already a proven entity thanks to the popularity of Danji, his Michelin-starred Midtown destination. The most critic-proof dish here is haemul pajeon, a scallion and squid pancake. It is big, light, flavorful and necessary. Everybody should also have the spicy, chewy pork-fat rice cake and fish cake. If you're ready to move past the secure boundaries of Korean-style fried chicken, there are braised pig trotters with fermented shrimp sauce and fresh-killed-chicken hearts on a skewer.