Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 07/01/2015
Garlic shrimp and pineapple. Photo: Evan Sung
- more in dining/
128 First Ave., 646-892-3050, East Village, Manhattan
Noreetuh means "playground" in Korean, and the menu here is certainly playful, featuring riffs on Hawaiian favorites. Lilting luau and 1960s tunes play on the sound system of the small, spare East Village restaurant, run by three Per Se veterans: chef Chung Chow, Jin Ahn and Gerald San Jose. Their dishes are artfully composed, and the wine and beer list is sophisticated. The menu weaves in Japanese, Korean and Filipino accents, such as bigeye tuna poke with macadamia nuts and seaweed; kalua pork croquettes; and Spam-stuffed agnolotti nestled with ramps, mushrooms and bonito flakes. Dessert time feels tropical, as chefs quarter Hawaiian pineapple and then brûlée it with a torch to make it crunchy and caramelized on top.