Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 10/19/2014
Photo: Bill Milne
- more in dining/
15 W. 18th St., 212-229-9500, Flatiron District, Manhattan
Jesse Schenker proved to be a chef to watch when he opened the intimate and exciting Recette in the West Village a few years back. The Gander, his follow-up in the former Alison Eighteen space, has grander ambitions and is roughly triple in size. The decor and furnishings have a mid-century modern aesthetic, and walls are lined with Morandi-inspired still lifes. Schenker is an obsessive, passionate chef, but he tries to keep things casual by offering bar snacks like "buffalo" sweetbreads with blue cheese and brisket tots with a cloudlike, mustard-flavored dip. His seasonal menu is restlessly inventive, from chilled sweet corn soup with roasted foie gras and crispy gnocchi to pork and cheddar lasagna with crispy pig's ear and broccoli. Another reason to see what he's up to: his redemptive, tell-all memoir, All or Nothing: One Chef's Appetite for the Extreme, is just out.