The vegan Ethiopian food served at Bunna Cafe is vibrant, varied and spicy, stewed with a sure hand by Kedega Srage. She is also adept at executing a ritualistic Ethiopian coffee ceremony, roasting the beans on a platform in the center of the dining room. Sourdough injera bread is the preferred utensil to scoop up vegetables and simmered legumes. The shiro—a dish made from ground split peas redolent of garlic and ginger—is especially delicious. Co-founders Liyuw Ayalew and Sam Saverance started Bunna as a pop-up. It eventually became so popular they took over this brick-lined, inviting Bushwick space full time in 2014. It’s a place to abstain from meat, but not from alcohol; there’s an amply supplied bar.