Northern Vietnamese-style pho is the specialty at Hanoi House, a dark East Village hangout. The peppery broth for beef pho bac is clear yet has depth, even more so with added marrow bone, pickled garlic and scallions. Portions are not huge but the quality of the ingredients is high, each slurp worth savoring. Green papaya and crispy pig ear salad with toasted peanuts is also wonderful, as is the ché sundae or coconut coffee for dessert. Large parties can book in advance; otherwise it’s all about getting your name on the list before it grows too long.