Insa, a wood-clad Korean canteen in Gowanus, is like a family-friendly picnic held indoors. Grills are built into the communal tables and food is meant to be shared, with the restaurant offering up pork, beef and chive dumplings; seafood and scallion pancakes; and sticky, glazed fried chicken. The waitstaff assists in grilling thinly sliced brisket and marinated short ribs, but the must-have dish is the stir-fried spicy squid with silky udon noodles. Chef Sohui Kim was born in Seoul; she and her designer-woodworker husband, Ben Schneider, are also behind The Good Fork in Red Hook. Their new operation includes a red-trimmed, tiki-themed bar and five karaoke rooms, four of which can be reserved for up to 10 people; a party room fits 22. The karaoke continues late into the night after the restaurant stops service. A 20 percent administrative fee is tacked on in lieu of tipping.