The idea behind Joël Robuchon's L'Atelier restaurants (located in Paris, Tokyo, London, Hong Kong, Las Vegas and Taipei) is that they're culinary workshops, with the kitchen team on display behind the counter. The often-exhilarating French menu changes frequently. Robuchon's ethos includes starting with blue-chip ingredients and minimally manipulating them so their innate essence is never disguised. "You're eating the truth," he likes to say. At New York's Four Seasons Hotel, the truth is you're eating in a luxurious, glorious and intimate showplace along with captains of industry and their consorts.