On the lower level of the towering William Vale hotel in Williamsburg is a handsome Southern Italian restaurant with a split personality. On one side is a sunny, cosmopolitan café serving breakfast and lunch; on the other is a wood-paneled plush cocoon for dinner. Andrew Carmellini, of NoHo Hospitality Group (Locanda Verde, The Dutch, Little Park), devised a menu with a wood-fire focus. Thin-crust pizza, hand-cut chitarra pasta with cuttlefish puttanesca and crispy suckling pig are among the house specialties. At lunch, the must-have sandwich is breaded chicken cutlet with mozzarella and marsala mushrooms.