Rafele is an airy, cosmopolitan trattoria in the West Village with an open workshop-type kitchen and wood-fired oven you wish you could transport home (except that it weighs about 700 tons). Raffaele Ronca of Naples is the chef/co-owner, who simplified the spelling of his name for the restaurant. He's been a staple in the neighborhood for a while, previously working at Palma and Bellavitae, and comes from a family of butchers, farmers and fisherman. The man knows ingredients. He's also in tune with people who are gluten-free (spinach and ricotta dumplings) and vegetarian (house-made pasta with mixed mushrooms and truffle pâté). Eat meat? Pan-seared veal-and-beef meatballs, grass-fed New York strip and braised pork belly are calling. For dessert, classic tiramisu and cheesecake cannot be faulted.