Plenty of places do fancy. Two Toms ain't one of them. Jimmy Catapano and his son, Tom, serve excellent food like manicotti-thin homemade pancakes rolled and stuffed with ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan and parsley. You won't find it listed on a menu-there isn't one. The waiters will fill you in on the day's selections, including a pork chop known in this neck of the woods for its Paul Bunyan proportions (veal dishes are more modestly sized). Wine and soft drinks are snatched from a deli-style fridge in the dining room, and they're all ice-cold.