Ice Age: NYC's Frozen-Dessert Revolution
by Jonathan Zeller, 05/30/2012
Coffee flavor with blueberries and Vermont maple. Photo: Laura Miller
Culture: An American Yogurt Company
331 Fifth Ave., 718-499-0207, Park Slope, Brooklyn
Dekalb Market, 138 Willoughby St., Downtown Brooklyn
Tart, Greek-style frozen yogurt might not exactly qualify as new—perhaps you've heard of Pinkberry—but this cozy joint serves the stuff its own way, doing just about everything on-site. Fresh, hormone-free (and, depending on the flavor, organic) milk is pasteurized, incubated and strained. The staff adds homemade toppings like key lime pie, oatmeal cookies and "Vermont maple" (made with pecans, vanilla beans and cinnamon) at the bottom and top of cups, eliminating the need for eaters to employ crafty strategies to make them last. The plain flavor has more than enough kick, but there's also a rotating cast of other varieties like blueberry pie and coffee (made with Stumptown, a brand beloved by java snobs). Jenny Ammirati—who used to work in finance—and her husband, Gino, started the place after realizing, in the midst of a big Greek yogurt–eating phase, "we can probably make this." The idea to freeze it came later, but they also do sell the fresh kind, which may be a boon to business when winter comes.