Ice Age: NYC's Frozen-Dessert Revolution
by Jonathan Zeller, 05/30/2012
Sushi ice cream. Photo: Laura Miller
63 Fifth Ave., 718-230-0910, Park Slope, Brooklyn
Asked why she started combination Thai restaurant and ice-cream parlor SkyIce, Sutheera Denprapa explains, "When I open my fridge, it's only ice cream." This could be one reason she pursues some bold flavor choices, including black sesame seaweed, Japanese eggplant coconut green curry and rhubarb lily; if you're eating an ice cream–only diet, you have to get your vitamins in somehow. Denprapa and her colleagues test the flavors rigorously and give out samples before deciding they've been refined enough to sell; so even if they sound strange, they are all proven crowd-pleasers. Traditionalists needn't worry, as the Park Slope eatery also features standbys like vanilla and (inevitably these days) salted caramel. The presentation is inspired: in a "sushi ice cream" plate, different flavors and toppings are doppelgängers for seaweed, fish, rice and wasabi. SkyIce strives to use organic ingredients whenever possible, although it is often challenging when trying to create traditional Thai flavors—and we did notice one bottle of Hershey's syrup. If you're dining with friends who would like savory food, SkyIce offers full meals prepared by Denprapa's partner, Kanlaya Chujit. The no-carb pad Thai, made with papaya noodles, is especially popular.