Ice Age: NYC's Frozen-Dessert Revolution
by Jonathan Zeller, 05/30/2012
Chocolate-chip cookie and brown butter–candied bacon ice cream. Courtesy, Coolhaus
Truck (various locations), 347-640-4287, Manhattan
Coolhaus founder Natasha Case, a UCLA architecture graduate, takes cues from the built environment when creating her organic ice-cream sandwiches. She calls her discipline "farchitecture"—a combination of food and architecture (nothing smellier, immature readers). There could be no better place for such a discipline than NYC, home to the world's most recognizable skyline. The Coolhaus truck is frequently set up underneath the High Line, which has inspired the "High Lime" flavor: lime ice cream between graham-cracker cookies. Other inventive varieties include the "violent" Lambrusco flavor, which was created for the movie 2012 but stuck because customers liked it so much. And, as any responsible gonzo dessert creator is wont to do these days, Coolhaus has also created a foie gras flavor. In a super-green touch, you can even eat the wrappers here. Are they any good? Case diplomatically notes that the packaging is "not about the taste." It's all-natural, though, and does reduce waste.