by Julie Besonen, 03/06/2013
Photo: Malcolm Brown
30 W. 26th St., 212-255-4544, Flatiron District, Manhattan
All that's missing is Debra Winger riding a bucking bronco in this urban tribute to Texas. Since it's in the Flatiron District, this big, lively roadhouse is bound to be more corporate than mom-and-pop, but Hill Country has got its 'cue down to a science. Everyone's given a ticket, which is filled out by the counter guys when you order—just like at Katz's Deli. Instead of pastrami, however, you'll be faced with choices of moist or lean brisket (get the moist) and beef ribs or hand-carved barbecue chicken, among other temptations. Wood tables are preset with a roll of paper towels, and you'll need them. Sides of church-supper green bean casserole, sweet potato bourbon mash and beer-braised pinto beans are also advised. Only the dry mac and cheese needs retooling. On Monday nights, the "All You Can Eat" recession special is $27, and Sunday nights feature a "Feed Yer Family" special.