Big-City Barbecue 

by Julie Besonen, 03/06/2013

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  • BrisketTown
    359 Bedford Ave., 718-701-8909, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
    Daniel Delaney is the wunderkind of the barbecue world, a 26-year-old who was recently crowned Brisket King of NYC 2013. Awesome is an overused word, but it applies to his supple, pepper-crusted slabs of brisket. It's enough to make you go weak in the knees, so take a seat before digging in. Pork ribs are a close second, the meat easily yielding from the bone. The thing is, unless you place an order ahead of time or get here early, it could all be gone. Breakfast tacos can sell out before noon. At night, hundreds of pounds of meat disappear within a couple of hours. The space is cozy and industrial, a cross between a butcher shop and a small-town café. Made-from-scratch pies, especially the pecan, are blue ribbon–worthy; one can envision a spin-off called PieTown. A liquor license is pending.

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