Dining

Big-City Barbecue 

by Julie Besonen, 03/06/2013

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  • Fletcher's Brooklyn Barbecue
    433 Third Ave., 347-763-2680, Gowanus, Brooklyn
    The barbecue here is more about Brooklyn than Texas or the Carolinas. Owner Bill Fletcher sources meats from local farm cooperatives that eschew hormones and antibiotics. Upstate New York provides the red oak and maple wood for slow-smoking ribs, pork, beef and chicken. Pitmaster Matthew Fisher, formerly of RUB BBQ, has a way with snappy hot links and pork steak, rosy chunks of shoulder that are so juicy and tasty naked no sauce is needed to cloak it. Brisket chili mac and cheese is wondrous, the smoky shreds of beef blanketing luscious, creamy noodles. Brisket burnt ends are also as good as they get. There's a modern sleekness to the space, with long wood tables and a short bar where you can sip a bracing bourbon and breathe in the amazing aromas.

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