Celebrity Hotel Chefs
by Julie Besonen, 05/11/2011
Branzino nero at Ai Fiori. Photo: Will Steacy
Michael White: Ai Fiori at The Setai Fifth Avenue
400 Fifth Ave., level two, 212-613-8660, Midtown West, Manhattan
Michael White is the current king of pasta and seafood in the City, due to the wild success of Osteria Morini and Marea. At Ai Fiori, he combines those talents in Ligurian crustacean ragout with black trofie pasta and saffron gnocchi with crab and sea urchin. It's a fine dining establishment in every sense of the word, with windows looking out on Fifth Avenue, well-trained service and a top-notch wine list. The dining room is luxuriously sprawling, commensurate with The Setai's guest rooms, among the largest in Manhattan. While White's interpretations of Italian cuisine are soulful, they're based on meticulous French technique. Gallic touches are evident in the main courses, which include bouillabaisse, Dover sole with beurre noisette and roasted hen with tomato confit and lemon-thyme jus.
Visit our page on The Setai Fifth Avenue for more information.