L-evated Cuisine: Dining Along the L Train
by Julie Besonen, 04/03/2013
Photo: Joe Buglewicz
L Train Stop: Bedford Ave.
296 Grand St., 718-384-7770, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
There are a crazy number of eateries near the Bedford stop in Williamsburg, so it's hard to single out just one for your consideration. Bozu flies under the radar and is a sound candidate to shine a light on. It's an untraditional Japanese hangout that's as dark as a speakeasy, romantic for dates and amusing for group get-togethers, especially after midnight when a late-night ramen menu is in place. The quirky design includes an overhead thatch of bamboo, which casts ghostly shadows. A swinging curtain of red daruma dolls (Japanese lucky charms) are scribbled with patrons' wishes for love and success. A feeling of good will is inevitable when sharing rice croquettes melded with squash, cheese, walnuts and sage, and a party "bomb" platter of sushi bites that include tuna with avocado and wasabi cream. There are plentiful sake choices, as well as Asian-inspired cocktails shaken up by a cool Japanese staff.