L-evated Cuisine: Dining Along the L Train
by Julie Besonen, 04/03/2013
Photo: Joe Buglewicz
L Train Stop: Graham Ave.
Graham Avenue Meats & Deli
445 Graham Ave., 718-389-9777, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
At this old-school Italian deli and butcher shop, the holy grail of hoagies might be the Godfather, a foot-long crusty loaf with thinly shaved mortadella, capicola ham, provolone, tomato and red onion, the bread lightly doused with olive oil and vinegar, sprinkled with herbs and spiked with hot chiles. It's a beast of a sandwich, a deal for under $10 and so expertly constructed it holds together when your jaw clamps down. There's a long roster of other superb subs to choose from, but ingredients may vary depending on availability and which friendly counterman is in charge; he'll rattle off the cold cuts, cheese and vegetables so fast it'll make your head spin. This place is a trip and worth the trip, but there's no seating. If you can wait until you get home, applying heat to the Godfather makes it even more scrumptious.