L-evated Cuisine: Dining Along the L Train
by Julie Besonen, 04/03/2013
Photo: Amy Gao
L Train Stop: Graham Ave. or Grand St.
312 Graham Ave., 347-889-7002, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Gwynnett St. is a destination restaurant no matter where you're coming from. Dulcet-toned greetings of "Good evening" and "May I take your coat?" signal it's serious. The dark, exposed brick dining room is inviting and the New American food, via executive chef Justin Hilbert (wd~50, the Michelin-starred Mugaritz in Spain), is revelatory. Straight off, spring $5 for whiskey bread with cultured butter. It may be the best bread you've had all year—dense, cushy, slightly sweet with a crusty lid. Contemplate the $85 tasting menu ($115 with wine pairing) to get the full effect of Hilbert's talents or order á la carte, such as stinging nettle soup with clams and kombu, salmon with wild mustard and white beer, and chicken with rutabaga, shallots, pineapple and clove. Nothing is ordinary here—that's the excitement.