L-evated Cuisine: Dining Along the L Train
by Julie Besonen, 04/03/2013
Iron skillet pork chop. Photo: Paul Wagtouicz
L Train Stop: Morgan Ave.
41 Wilson Ave., 929-234-2344, Bushwick, Brooklyn
Contemporary English cooking by Jessica Wilson (ex–Goat Town, A Voce Columbus, Prune) hits the sweet spot in Bushwick, an up-and-coming enclave fed by the tentacles of Williamsburg and the L train. The narrow, pub-like space could have been appareled by a Cotswolds thrift shop—aristocrats in gilt frames, foxhunting images, birdcages and milk bottles repurposed as light fixtures—yet it stops short of twee. In brief, there's a lot to look at, including a beatnik crowd with unfastidious hair, rumpled jackets and slipshod scarves, suggesting the cast of an early Godard film. And the food? It's really good. At dinner is roasted mushroom pie and an iron skillet pork chop with fig bacon vinaigrette. Brunch offers Yorkshire pudding pancakes, jars of candied bacon, egg sausage rolls with smoked tomato relish and French press coffee served with a cream pitcher in the shape of a brontosaurus.