Harlem's Foodie Renaissance
by David Kaufman , 07/17/2013
Photo: Joe Buglewicz
Bad Horse Pizza
2222 Frederick Douglass Ave., 212 749-1258
High-quality, thin-crust, wood-oven pizza is a staple of most Manhattan neighborhoods, but it took Bad Horse Pizza to bring it to Harlem. Although a bit on the pricey side, Bad Horse has cultivated a dedicated following, since opening in April 2011, thanks to handmade dough, all-natural mozzarella and perfectly simmered sauce made from San Marzano plum tomatoes and extra-virgin olive oil. Pizzas come in two sizes and include standard "pick-your-own-topping" pies as well as house specialties such as the Acropolis—featuring feta cheese and kalamata olives—and the jalapeño-and-cilantro-spiked Rio Grande; the aptly named Pig and Goat is topped with prosciutto and goat's milk cheese. There are salads—caprese and baby spinach among them—along with a handful of pastas. The offerings are paired with well-priced wines from a short list that includes California selections and perfectly chilled Prosecco and Lambrusco.