by Julie Besonen, 11/20/2012
Photo: Brendan F Casey
501 11th St., 718-788-1810, Park Slope, Brooklyn
The countryside comes to Brooklyn at Applewood, a gently lit restaurant in a storefront outfitted with a blazing fireplace and art ennobling barns, cows and chickens. Naturally, the food is seasonal, which currently means autumn vegetable risotto, pan-roasted Long Island bluefish and grilled Vermont lamb. Owners David and Laura Shea took possession of a farm upstate earlier this year, and much of the restaurant's produce and the occasional pig comes from their sunup-to-sundown efforts. A hospitable, bearded barkeep oversees the snug bar, where you can sample selections from the organic and biodynamic wine list, paired with a small plate of house-made charcuterie with garlic crostini. It would be wrong to skip desserts like pumpkin pie or maple pudding cake, but if you do, the check will still come with a sweet send-off like a lemon sugar cookie or mint truffle.