by Julie Besonen, 11/20/2012
Photo: Joe Buglewicz
10-76 Jackson Ave., 718-786-6171, Long Island City, Queens
Manetta's is an unabashedly old-fashioned Italian restaurant that hasn't changed much in two decades. Near the entrance are display cases of tiramisu and cheesecake, making dessert an easy pickup before getting on the Long Island Expressway. The casual dining room, with sienna-colored walls and granite tabletops, reflects the dress code: no collars or jackets required. From the brick oven come excellent, blistered, thin-crust pizzas that are "individual" size but easily enough for two. The signature "Manetta" pie is a standout, topped with tomato sauce, blobs of fresh mozzarella, zucchini, eggplant, radicchio and roasted peppers. Fried calamari, linguine with clams, chicken parmigiana and vegetable sides, such as broccoli rabe with caramelized slices of garlic, are also generously sized.