While it's too soon to call it a full-fledged neo-Renaissance, Harlem is unquestionably happening. Buoyed by an influx of former downtowners and emboldened by a tradition of culture and creativity, the neighborhood is chockablock with new high-end shops, restaurants, music halls, lounges and even a luxury hotel. It's all part of the quarter's ongoing effort to establish itself as a must-visit Manhattan destination, even while it retains its distinctive character. Harlem may still be beloved for its hundreds of churches, elegant row houses, unexpected parks and tiny home-cooking joints, but there's another side of the neighborhood in the making these days: sleek, chic and sophisticated. It's Manhattan at its colorful best.