by Julie Besonen, 02/15/2012
Courtesy, The Odeon
145 West Broadway, 212-233-0507, TriBeCa, Manhattan
The Odeon's burger is a juicy marvel, the brioche bun bundling the loosely formed meat into a controllable package. The only reason to set it down once in a while is to snatch a few thin, crisp, hot, salted fries from a paper-lined funnel. A more levelheaded diner might choose a salad accompaniment instead, but what a shame. Find another way to save on calories. The burger with fries is $16, and it's $2 extra for a slab of melted cheese (Gruyère is good), which may seem expensive, but you're getting a rich experience. This French-American Art Deco brasserie, open since 1980, was a haunt of Andy Warhol and John Belushi, and it's still firing on all cylinders.