Must-Try Sandwiches (Part Deux)
by Julie Besonen
Athens sandwich. Photo: Jorge Garcia
120 Smith St., 718-852-0200, Boerum Hill, Brooklyn
In the fall of 2011, everyone went gaga for Bien Cuit's quail egg, truffle salt and heirloom tomato on Pugliese bread—but until heirloom season rolls around again, we're content with the Athens. Between slices of sunflower rye are strips of roasted zucchini, mashed Sicilian olives and caramelized garlic—it's a simple and refreshing vegetarian sandwich swaddled neatly in a paper wrapping that makes it easy to polish off. The bread at this bakery is serious stuff; Bien Cuit uses an age-old, slow fermentation process where loaves can take up to three days to make. Zachary Golper studied his trade in Provence, Las Vegas and Philadelphia, at Le Bec-Fin in the latter city. He also turns out beatific tarts and croissants, and to accompany them are fine teas from Harney & Sons and a scrumptious hot chocolate.