by Julie Besonen, 07/21/2010
Chicken parm at Torrisi Italian Specialties. Photo: Daniel Krieger
Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry St., 212-965-0955, Little Italy
The chicken parm on a roll here is such a wonder of vibrant flavor and old-fashioned goodness, you may feel your eyes tear up. The young, visionary chefs, Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone, have brought new authenticity to the Mulberry Street/Italian-American tradition, which had been strongly in need of an energy injection. Between the sesame-seeded bun is a thick slab of top-quality chicken rolled in Progresso breadcrumbs, pan-fried in butter, draped with handmade mozzarella and fresh basil leaves and ladled with lively tomato sauce. The sandwich is only served at lunch, and since there are just 18 coveted seats, go early or late if you want to enjoy it in peace.