by Julie Besonen, 07/21/2010
Photo: Clayton Cotterell
Eisenberg's Sandwich Shop
174 Fifth Ave., 212-675-5096, Flatiron District
"You either get it or you don't" is emblazoned on a sandwich board outside Eisenberg's, apropos for this feisty, old-school lunch counter lined with red stools and TV-tray-size tables. Judging from the walls, which are crammed with pictures of famous folk, lots of celebrities get it (Jodie Foster, Liev Schreiber, Philip Seymour Hoffman)—all of them pictured with the owner, Josh Konecky. Regular joes come here, too, mainly for straightforward tuna salad and egg salad sandwiches, egg creams and lime rickeys, though the gold-standard Reuben is what really proves the place hasn't slipped. Buttery, crunchy toast squashes down thinly sliced, plentiful corned beef, dolled up with strings of sauerkraut and a sweet touch of Russian dressing. With each bite, the melted Swiss pulls like taffy. The wiseacre Konecky mans the cash register; tell him on your way out that you just had a good Reuben and he'll say, "Oh, yeah? Where?"