by Julie Besonen, 07/03/2013
Photo: Alexander Thompson
930 Fulton St., 718-622-4679, Clinton Hill, Brooklyn
French country food interpreted by a fantasy grandmère and real life Brooklyn guys is what you'll find at this cool blue space meant to mimic a 1970s French truck stop. The poetic Three Letters was conceived by three owners whose first names all have three letters: Cam Honsa, Asa Johnson and Pip Freeman, who is also the chef. On diner plates he dishes up pâté de campagne with pickles, kale and anchovy mustard, and black sea bass with morel butter. Dessert takes tasty little detours off the traditional route, such as a citrus-based napoleon and coconut-infused pot de crème. Freeman used to be vegan and hasn't forgotten his former brethren, making a thoughtful seitan entrée cooked with prunes, smoked hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and Madeira. Wine on tap and craft cocktails are other contemporary touches.