Nordic Dining in NYC
by Julie Besonen, 08/27/2013
Pork belly. Photo: Signe Birck
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13 Laight St., 212-925-1313, TriBeCa, Manhattan
Aamanns-Copenhagen gives you a good sense of the contemporary mind-set of the Danes: the all-white, high-ceilinged design is clean and functional; and the food is scrupulously sourced and prepared with a nimble eye for color and flavor. Chef Adam Aamann is a noted Danish cookbook author and a maestro of smørrebrød, malty, dark rye bread topped with various options including meat, cured white fish, herbaceous chicken salad or baby boiled potatoes with smoked mayonnaise, radish and chives. A seasonal Nordic dinner here might include butter-fried hake with parsley and preserved lemon, slow-cooked pork belly with summer vegetables and pickled ramps and otherworldly carrot emulsion with crystallized white chocolate, sea buckthorn, house-made yogurt and fresh chervil. While the TriBeCa restaurant demonstrates a rigorous respect for Danish tradition, the adventurous food, cocktails, boutique wines and microbrews are thoroughly forward-thinking.