Nordic Dining in NYC
by Julie Besonen, 08/27/2013
Gravlax. Courtesy, Smörgås Chef
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283 W. 12th St., 212-243-7073, West Village, Manhattan
53 Stone St., 212-422-3500, Financial District, Manhattan
58 Park Ave., 212-847-9745, Murray Hill, Manhattan
A few years ago Norwegian Morten Sohlberg and his wife, Min Ye, bought a Catskills farm, Blenheim Hill, to supply heritage meats, free-range chicken, heirloom tomatoes and a bonanza of seasonal produce to their trio of Scandinavian restaurants in Manhattan. Both the cozy Wall Street and West Village locations of the farm-to-table operation are on pretty, cobblestoned blocks; the third is at the base of Scandinavia House, the country's leading center for Nordic arts and culture. The menus at all three are similar and cover the classics: Swedish meatballs sweetened with lingonberries, herring in cream sauce, cured gravlax, and a wonderful smorgasbord that gathers two of everything, just like Noah's Ark, and also includes a hot little skillet of irresistible matchstick potatoes capped with cheese.