by Julie Besonen, 08/14/2012
DuMac and cheese. Photo: Peter Lueders
432 Union Ave., 718-486-7717, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Is there a better back garden? DuMont's low-profile exterior and saloon-like interior give no hint at the halcyon setting in the rear where you can luxuriate in the outdoors and still be shielded from sun and traffic. And the food? The famous burger is a juicy monster and effectively buried under a shower of fries and pickles. The equally famous DuMac and cheese—an overflowing soufflé of radiatore pasta, bacon, cheddar, Gruyère and Parmesan—will hold you till tomorrow. If it's eggs you have in mind, the omelets, Benedict and Florentine have flair, but the house-cured corned beef hash topped with poached eggs is the way to go to soak up any excess from the night before. Make an afternoon out of your trip to the neighborhood by paying a visit to Franklin the pig at Crest Hardware and shopping for a Williamsburg-appropriate fedora at Pork Pie Hatters.