by Julie Besonen, 08/14/2012
Huevos con nopales and granola. Photo: Sam Horine
40 Ave. B, 212-677-4096, East Village, Manhattan
Fonda flies under the radar, an advantage for anyone seeking a truly great Mexican brunch without a galling wait. Let's assume you've had a variety of huevos rancheros; they all pale next to Fonda's. (You'll see.) Chilaquiles are also a cut above the rest, crispy tortillas tossed in roasted tomato–habanero sauce and your choice of shredded chicken, grilled skirt steak or scrambled eggs. The eggs are organic and the portions are big, but not sickeningly so. Here's another thing that makes it worth the trek: a spicy Bloody Mary, mimosa or Rosalita (a frozen, hibiscus-flavored margarita) is included in the price, which starts at $7 for house-made organic granola with yogurt, pomegranate kernels, pumpkin seeds, pecans, orange segments and sesame brittle. Now that's classy. Service is professional, and the lighting is subdued—exactly what you want when you've just rolled out of bed.