The Gr-Eat Outdoors
by Julie Besonen, 06/05/2013
Photo: Joe Buglewicz
The Good Fork
391 Van Brunt St., 718-643-6636, Red Hook, Brooklyn
Hurricane Sandy did a number on Red Hook, but the tight-knit community has made a strong comeback. The Good Fork, open since 2006, took a couple of months to rebuild and reopen—but to look at it now, you'd never know the damage it sustained. The curved, glossy wood ceiling looks like the interior of a sailing ship, and the backyard is Shangri-La, where it feels impossible to be unhappy. Sohui Kim's pork and chive dumplings are minor miracles, offered both at brunch and dinnertime. Korean influences fleck the New American menu elsewhere as well, with dishes like classic bibimbap and steak and eggs with kimchee rice. Kim's personal stamp reflects global interests, such as seasonally inspired kale vichyssoise with pistachio butter and handmade ricotta gnocchi with ramp pesto and buttered almonds.