Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 01/08/2014
Photo: Dimitrios Manousakis
The Greek Ouzerie & Taverna
458 Greenwich St., 646-476-3941, TriBeCa, Manhattan
The Greek slipped into the old Turks and Frogs space in TriBeCa a few months ago nearly as surreptitiously as a Trojan horse. Word trickled out about its soulful food, its warmth, its exclusively Greek wine list; gradually people outside the neighborhood have been catching on. Most nights it's full but not overrun. Owner Tom Galis, a fast-casual entrepreneur from Thessaloniki, applied his full passion to this dark, cozy "gastrotaverna," where you'll be inclined to eat slowly, savoring each bite. Spinach and feta pies are constructed of flaky handmade phyllo and grilled octopus is bathed in bacon vinaigrette. In addition to offering a few sea creatures, the restaurant represents the meaty mainland through seared chicken, Grandma's stovetop meatballs and ouzo-scented skirt steak.