Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 01/08/2014
184 DeKalb Ave., 718-596-4147, Fort Greene, Brooklyn
The New American food at Martha offers something for any of your mood swings, whether you need the pure comfort of marinated and fried golden chicken with a duck-fat-laced biscuit or the immune-system-boosting broccoli rabe with Chinese black vinegar, Korean chilies and garlic chips. Chef-owner Andres Valbuena and his partner, Melissa Gorman, have created a friendly Fort Greene neighborhood canteen, with laughter echoing off its white-tiled walls and shareable plates and black skillets covering its reclaimed-wood tabletops. For BAM ticket holders, it's a short walk for a pre-show dinner of simple yet sophisticated cooking by the Caracas-born Valbuena, whose résumé includes the lauded Mugaritz in Spain's Basque Country and chef Thomas Keller's The French Laundry in California. Brunch (the only meal that biscuit is available) is a good time to hit Martha after a walk in Fort Greene Park, with atypical offerings like a sunny-side up egg perched atop kale, mustard greens, swiss chard and pesto.