Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 02/05/2014
Photo: Nadine Anderson
329 Greenwich St., 212-966-9255, TriBeCa, Manhattan
Telepan is an established name on the Upper West Side, a special-occasion restaurant for exceptional seasonal New American cuisine. Telepan Local in TriBeCa is more of an all-occasion experience, featuring small, ingredient-driven dishes like earthy mushrooms intensified by time spent cooking in parchment paper with butter and fresh herbs. In case you didn't know, Bill Telepan is the man behind the curtain, a chef who's worked with Daniel Boulud and Alfred Portale, among others. His more casual downtown outpost is along the same lines as Wylie Dufresne spinning off Alder from wd-50. There is a commodious marble bar and a wood-clad dining room astir with plaid-shirted servers evoking an Oklahoma chorus. Pigs in a blanket with honey mustard, roasted beets with ricotta and honey, and lamb tartare with fennel and black olive particularly show how the farmer and the cattle rancher and the chef can all be the best of friends.