Dining

Recently Opened Restaurants

by Julie Besonen, 03/12/2014

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  • Emmett's
    50 MacDougal St., 917-639-3571, SoHo, Manhattan
    The City has had some pizza-related dustups of late: the media erupted into a frenzy when Mayor Bill de Blasio ate pizza with utensils instead of his hands, and Jon Stewart mocked Chicago’s deep-dish style as a casserole, among other insults (Justice Antonin Scalia, who grew up in NYC, followed a couple of months later by saying Chicago's version was "not pizza"). The easiest resolution to such outbursts is to merely give the people what they want: more pizza. This approach is very much alive at Chicago native Emmett Burke's boxy, exposed-brick joint, which plays to a full house every night (proof that not everyone shares Stewart's POV). In these pies, pedestals of high-walled crusts barricade pools of red sauce from escaping; an accompanying egg timer delivered to your table ensures the pizza is set before wedges are scooped out. However counterintuitive, deep-dish pizza is inverted, the cheese melted on the bottom, followed by toppings and then a crowning of tomato sauce. The pies take at least 35 minutes to bake, but a festive air, good salads and some wine or beer help make the wait less taxing.

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