Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 03/12/2014
Photo: Tuukka Koski
412 Court St., 347-987-3545, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
Dover goes the extra mile to tickle its guests, presenting unexpected gifts like a super-creamy gougère and a shot of hot root vegetable soup jazzed up with olive oil and chili pepper. Then comes the spectacular bread, a fresh-from-the-oven loaf to be slathered with dips of pureed white bean, tapenade and ricotta whipped with honey. The dips are gossamer-light and delightful. Battersby co-chefs Walker Stern and Joseph Ogrodnek have a way of creating all kinds of dishes an amateur can't imagine duplicating, like spicy squid-ink tagliatelle with peekytoe crab, Meyer lemon and browned bread crumbs. Sumptuous lamb ribs with Japanese eggplant, peanuts and mint are the components in another must-have dish. The windowed, pale-wood space in Carroll Gardens has a small bar and an impressive, mostly European wine list, and plays to a bigger audience (54 seats) than at tiny Battersby.