Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 04/09/2014
Bavette steak with house-made steak sauce. Courtesy, French Louie
320 Atlantic Ave., 718-935-1200, Boerum Hill, Brooklyn
Buttermilk Channel now has a sister, a French-accented Boerum Hill bistro. Named for a 19th-century French-Canadian hermit feted for emerging from the woods howling and hooting, French Louie serves urbane food—not the sort of stuff you'd find around a campfire. Battered anchovy frites with fried lemon wheels spark the palate for other savory snacks, like puffy, cheesy gougères and a terrine of foie gras and country ham to be spread on triangles of toasted brioche. Smoked sardines and pan-fried skate with crab dirty rice and spicy crab bisque are other signature dishes. Doug Crowell and chef Ryan Angulo head up the smart, streamlined space with a soon-to-open backyard patio. So far reservations are not accepted, but you could do worse than have a precisely made cocktail or pour of French wine at the bar while waiting for a table.